Stifado is a Greek beef stew with tender chuck roast, sweet pearl onions, and a red wine and tomato sauce fragrant with cinnamon, cloves, and allspice.

Stifado, a Greek Stew for Sunday Dinner

In Greece, where I grew up, stifado (pronounced stiff-ah-do) is a familiar Sunday family meal, especially when the weather turns cool. Whole pearl onions soften alongside the beef in a fragrant red wine and tomato sauce. Allow about 3 hours and 20 minutes from preparation to serving, including a 15-minute rest.

The onions are as much a part of stifado as the meat. With 1½ pounds of pearl onions to 2 pounds of beef, there are plenty to enjoy in every serving. Their sweetness balances the savory sauce, while the spices add warmth without making the stew hot.

Like braised lamb shanks, beef stifado needs a gentle simmer and a little patience. Brown the meat in batches, scrape up the flavorful bits from the pot, and let the beef cook slowly in the sauce. Most of the cooking time is hands-off, with a check halfway through to stir and monitor the liquid.

Bring the pot to the table with orzo, mashed potatoes, or crusty bread to catch the sauce. Stifado is also well suited to cooking a day ahead, giving the flavors more time to come together.

Ingredients for Stifado

The beef, onions, and spices each have a distinct role here. Choose a cut suited to slow cooking, keep the pearl onions whole, and measure the spices carefully so their warmth complements the wine and tomatoes.

• Beef chuck roast: Buy a whole chuck roast, trim it, and cut it into 1½-inch pieces, or ask your butcher to do this for you. Cutting one piece of meat into similarly sized cubes helps it cook evenly. Packaged “stew meat” may contain several different cuts that become tender at different rates. Boneless short ribs are another option.
• Pearl onions: These small onions, usually about the size of a marble or slightly larger, become sweet and tender in the sauce. White pearl onions are the classic choice here. Peeled frozen pearl onions save considerable preparation time and go straight into the pot without thawing. If using fresh, peel them before you begin cooking.
• Garlic: Coarsely chop the cloves. Add them after the onions have softened so they cook briefly before the tomato paste and spices go in.
• Extra virgin olive oil: Use it to brown the beef and sauté the onions in the same pot. A Greek extra virgin olive oil is a fitting choice, though another good extra virgin olive oil works too.
• Tomato paste and canned tomatoes: Tomato paste gives the sauce concentrated tomato flavor; cook it briefly with the onions and spices before adding liquid. Use a 14-ounce can of whole or diced tomatoes. Break up whole tomatoes with the back of a spoon.
• Red wine: Choose a full-bodied red wine you would enjoy drinking with dinner. It becomes part of the sauce and helps loosen the browned bits left in the pot.
• Cognac or brandy: A small amount adds depth to the wine and tomato sauce. If you prefer to leave it out, use 3 tablespoons of red wine vinegar in its place. The red wine remains part of the stew.
• Bay leaves, cinnamon, cloves, and allspice: A cinnamon stick, ground cloves, and allspice give stifado its characteristic warm aroma, while bay leaves add an herbal note. Allspice is a single spice with a flavor reminiscent of cloves, cinnamon, and nutmeg. Use 4 whole allspice berries or ¼ teaspoon of ground allspice.
• Kosher salt and black pepper: Season the beef before browning, then taste the finished stew before adding more.

How to Peel Fresh Pearl Onions

Frozen pearl onions are already peeled, but a brief soak in hot water makes fresh ones easier to prepare.

1. Prepare the water. Bring a pot of water to a boil and fill a large bowl with ice water.
2. Soak the onions. Put the fresh pearl onions in a large heatproof bowl. Pour the boiling water over them and let stand for about 2 minutes.
3. Cool them quickly. Drain and immediately transfer the onions to the ice water.
4. Slip off the skins. Trim the root end of each onion, then pinch gently to release it from its skin. Keep the peeled onions whole.

How to Make Stifado

Use a Dutch oven or another heavy-bottomed, nonreactive pot with a lid. Have the beef cut and the onions peeled before heating the oil. Once the wine and tomatoes are in, the stew needs a slow simmer rather than a rolling boil.

• Prepare and brown the beef. Cut 2 pounds of trimmed chuck roast into 1½-inch pieces and pat dry. Spread it on a tray and season with ¾ teaspoon kosher salt and ½ teaspoon freshly ground black pepper. Heat ¼ cup extra virgin olive oil in the pot over high heat until shimmering. Add the beef in a single layer, working in batches so the pieces have room to brown. Cook, turning, until lightly browned on all sides, about 1 to 2 minutes per side. Transfer each batch to a large bowl with a slotted spoon. Cover and set aside.
• Soften the onions. Reduce the heat to medium and add 1½ pounds peeled whole pearl onions. Frozen onions can go in without thawing. Stir to coat them in the oil, adding a dash more oil if needed. Cook for about 10 minutes, until softened but not caramelized. Add 5 coarsely chopped garlic cloves and cook, stirring, for 1 minute.
• Add the tomato paste and spices. Stir in 1 tablespoon tomato paste, 2 bay leaves, 1 cinnamon stick, ¼ teaspoon ground cloves, and 4 allspice berries or ¼ teaspoon ground allspice. Cook for 1 minute, then return the beef and any juices collected in the bowl to the pot. Stir to coat the meat.
• Pour in the wine and brandy. Add 1 cup full-bodied red wine and ¼ cup cognac or brandy. Scrape the bottom of the pot with a wooden spoon to loosen the browned bits and stir them into the liquid. Simmer for 5 minutes.
• Add the tomatoes and simmer gently. Stir in one 14-ounce can of whole or diced tomatoes, breaking up whole tomatoes with the back of a spoon. Add enough warm water to cover the meat. Adjust the heat to medium or medium-low to maintain a slow simmer, then cover. Cook for about 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours, until the beef is tender and the sauce has thickened slightly. Halfway through, stir and check the liquid level, adding a little more hot water if needed.
• Finish and serve. Taste and adjust the seasoning. Remove the bay leaves, cinnamon stick, and whole allspice berries, if using. Take the pot off the heat and let the stifado rest uncovered for 15 minutes. Serve warm, spooning the beef, onions, and sauce over orzo, rice, or mashed potatoes.

Tips for Tender Beef and a Rich Stifado Sauce

A few details make a difference during the long simmer, particularly the heat beneath the pot and the amount of liquid around the beef.

• Give the beef room to brown. Pat the pieces dry and arrange them in a single layer with space between them. Crowding the pot traps moisture and prevents a good sear. Brown in batches, saving the juices that collect in the bowl to return to the sauce.
• Soften the onions without deeply browning them. They need about 10 minutes over medium heat before the garlic goes in. Their cooking continues in the covered pot, where they soften further and take on the flavor of the wine, tomatoes, and spices.
• Watch the simmer, not just the heat setting. Medium-low on one stove may be much hotter than on another. Look for gentle bubbling rather than vigorous boiling, and adjust the burner as needed.
• Check the liquid halfway through. Begin with enough warm water to cover the meat, then check beneath the lid during cooking. If too much liquid has evaporated, add a little hot water. The beef needs time to become tender before the sauce gets too concentrated.
• Check the meat as well as the clock. The simmer takes about 1 hour 40 minutes to 2 hours, depending on the size of the pieces. The beef should be tender and the sauce slightly thickened before you take the pot off the heat. Finish with the full 15-minute uncovered rest.

Stifado Variations and Substitutions

Stifado is not always made with beef. Rabbit is a longstanding Greek variation, and veal and poultry versions are also part of the dish’s tradition. The generous quantity of small onions is a defining feature across these variations.

For a meatless version, try Greek mushroom stew (manitaria stifado), made with a mix of mushrooms.

For beef stifado, there are a few useful alternatives when shopping:

• Instead of pearl onions: Use peeled shallots, small members of the onion family with a mild flavor, or leeks cut into 1-inch pieces. The leeks will give the stew a different appearance from the whole onions.
• Instead of chuck roast: Boneless short ribs are another option. Cut the meat into similarly sized pieces and use tenderness as your guide during the simmer.
• Instead of cognac or brandy: Substitute 3 tablespoons of red wine vinegar for the ¼ cup of spirits. Keep the 1 cup of red wine.
• Instead of whole allspice berries: Use ¼ teaspoon ground allspice. Unlike the whole berries, the ground spice stays in the finished sauce.

What to Serve With Stifado

Orzo is a classic accompaniment to stifado, served plain or cooked in a light tomato sauce. Hilopites, Greek egg noodles, are another option. Spoon the meat and onions over the pasta, then add enough sauce to coat it.

Fluffy basmati rice or roasted garlic mashed potatoes also make a good base for the stew. For potatoes on the side, try Greek oven fries. Whatever you choose, put some crusty bread on the table for the sauce.

If serving wine, pour the same full-bodied red you used in the pot. A Greek red is a fitting accompaniment if you can find one.

Making Stifado Ahead

Stifado tastes even better the next day, once the wine, onions, and spices have had time to meld. Cook the stew through the final resting step, then divide it into shallow containers and refrigerate promptly. You don’t need to wait for a large pot to cool to room temperature.

The next day, reheat the stew on the stovetop, stirring gently, until it reaches 165°F throughout. Prepare the orzo, rice, or potatoes separately before serving.

Storing and Reheating Leftovers

• Reheat: Warm in a saucepan on the stovetop, stirring gently so the meat and onions heat evenly. Check that the stew reaches 165°F throughout before serving.
• Refrigerate: Refrigerate in covered, shallow containers within 2 hours of cooking, or within 1 hour if the surrounding temperature is above 90°F, and use within 3 to 4 days.
• Freeze: Portion the stew into freezer-safe containers. Thaw in the refrigerator before reheating.

More Greek Comfort Food Recipes to Try

Greek Mushroom Stew (Manitaria Stifado)

Youvetsi: Greek Lamb Stew with Orzo

Pastitsio (Greek Lasagna Recipe)

Kleftiko-Style Roasted Chicken and Vegetables