Preserved Lemons

A staple of North African cooking, especially Moroccan tagines, preserved lemons soften in salt and lemon juice, adding concentrated citrus flavor to everything from slow-simmered stews to everyday sandwiches.

Homemade Preserved Lemons, from My Egyptian Table

Growing up in Egypt, all sorts of pickles showed up on our dinner table. They were no less important than Dad’s lazy tomato and cucumber salad or the tahini sauce we drizzled over falafel and kofta. Pickled cucumbers and lemons were my favorites.

That generous use of pickles, sauces, and little accompaniments is part of the Mediterranean cooking I grew up with and share in my cookbooks. A small amount of preserved lemon brings a salty, citrusy contrast to a rich stew or a simple sandwich.

You may know preserved lemons best from Moroccan cooking, particularly dishes like chicken tagine. Their place on our Egyptian table reflects how widely these flavors are enjoyed across North Africa and the Middle East. Here, I pack the lemons with kosher salt and a little sugar, then add peppercorns, bay leaves, and fresh lemon juice.

Making them takes about 20 minutes of hands-on work, an overnight rest, and another 3 weeks to 1 month in the refrigerator. As they sit, the peel and flesh soften and their sharp tartness mellows. The flavor stays concentrated, so a little goes a long way. The hard part is waiting!

What Are Preserved Lemons?

Preserved lemons are lemons packed with salt and covered in lemon juice, which gradually softens both the peel and flesh. They’re also called salt-preserved lemons or pickled lemons.

There’s no vinegar here: the lemons sit in salt and their own juice, with additional fresh lemon juice poured over them. Both the peel and flesh are edible once softened.

Ingredients for Preserved Lemons

You’ll need a handful of ingredients and enough fresh lemon juice to cover the lemons in their jar. Remember to buy extra lemons for juicing!

• Lemons: Start with 8 large lemons for preserving. I recommend organic Eureka lemons, the familiar yellow lemons found in many grocery stores. Choose fruit that feels heavy for its size, with a thin, fine-textured peel and a deep yellow color. Meyer lemons are another option; their thinner skins are less bitter. Since you’ll be eating the peel, scrub the lemons well under running water.
• Kosher salt: You’ll use ½ cup to coat the lemons and fill the cuts between their quarters. Work it inside each lemon rather than leaving it all on the outside.
• Sugar: Combine 2 tablespoons with the salt before filling and coating the lemons.
• Whole peppercorns: Add 2 tablespoons to the jar for peppery flavor. Keep them whole rather than using ground pepper.
• Dried bay leaves: Four to five leaves add an herbal aroma as the lemons sit in their juice.
• Fresh lemon juice: Plan on about 2½ cups, from an additional 7 to 8 lemons. Juice yield varies, so check the liquid level when you pack the jar: the lemons need to be completely submerged.

How to Make Preserved Lemons

The preparation happens over two days, followed by several weeks in the refrigerator. Have a large mixing bowl and a sterilized jar with a tight-fitting lid ready. Choose a jar that accommodates the lemons and enough juice to cover them, or divide everything among smaller jars.

• Scrub and trim. Scrub 8 large lemons thoroughly under running water. Trim about ¼ inch from the top and bottom of each lemon.
• Cut into attached quarters. Stand a lemon on one of its trimmed ends. Cut down through it lengthwise, stopping before you reach the bottom, then make a second cut across the first. You should have four quarters still joined at the base. Repeat with the remaining lemons.
  
  

• Fill with salt and sugar. Combine ½ cup kosher salt and 2 tablespoons sugar. Place the lemons in a large bowl, gently open the quarters, and work the mixture into the cuts. Turn the lemons in any mixture remaining in the bowl to coat the outsides, too.
• Refrigerate overnight. Cover the bowl with plastic wrap and refrigerate overnight, up to 24 hours. The lemons will release some of their juice; keep that liquid for the next step.
  
  
• Pack the lemons. The next day, transfer the lemons, all their released juices, and any remaining salt-and-sugar mixture to a large sterilized jar. Press the lemons down firmly so they fit snugly, then add 2 tablespoons whole peppercorns and 4 to 5 dried bay leaves.
• Cover with lemon juice. Pour in about 2½ cups fresh lemon juice, checking that it covers the tops of the lemons. The amount needed will depend on the size of the lemons and how closely they’re packed. All the lemons should be submerged.
  
  
• Seal and refrigerate. Close the lid tightly and refrigerate for 3 weeks to 1 month before using. As the lemons sit, the peel and flesh will soften, and their sharp tartness will mellow. Keep the jar refrigerated throughout this time.

Tips for Making Preserved Lemons

A few details make the preparation easier, especially when it’s time to pack the jar.

• Don’t squeeze everything into a jar that’s too small. The lemons need to fit snugly, but there must also be room for lemon juice to cover them. If the uppermost lemon sits above the liquid, divide the batch between smaller sterilized jars, distributing the seasonings and juices between them.
• Use the juice measurement as a guide, then check the jar. About 2½ cups is the starting amount, but lemon size and the spaces between the fruit affect how much you need. Pour slowly, let the juice settle around the lemons, and check that their tops are covered before sealing.
• Count the overnight rest separately. The first night lets the lemons release some juice before packing. The 3-week-to-1-month preserving period begins after you pack the jar, so plan ahead if you want them for a particular meal.

How to Use Preserved Lemons

Start with a small amount of preserved lemon and taste before adding more. Finely chop it to distribute the salty, citrusy flavor through a stew, or cut thin slices for sandwiches. Taste the finished dish before adding extra salt.

Both the peel and flesh are edible. If you prefer to use just the rind, separate it from the flesh and rinse it under running water to remove excess salt before slicing. Remove any seeds as you prepare the lemons.

Here are a few ways to put your jar to work:

• Add to tagines and stews. Use some in place of the lemon slices in my chicken tagine, or add finely chopped pieces in small amounts to Moroccan lamb stew or vegetable tagine. Their brightness is especially welcome alongside warm spices and rich sauces.
• Stir into lentils. A little chopped preserved lemon brings a tangy contrast to a pot of lentil stew. Taste before adding more salt, since the lemons contribute their own.
• Toss with roasted vegetables. Thinly slice or chop the lemons and toss a little with roasted vegetables. Small pieces are easier to distribute than large wedges.
• Tuck into sandwiches. Add a few thin slices as you would other pickled vegetables. You don’t need much to bring a salty, tangy bite to your lunch.

How to Store Preserved Lemons

Keep preserved lemons in a tightly closed jar in the refrigerator, with the lemons submerged in lemon juice. Properly stored, they keep for up to 6 months.

Refrigerate them throughout the initial preserving period and after you begin using them. Packing the lemons into a canning jar does not make them shelf-stable.

More Homemade Pickles to Try

Sides and Small Plates

Middle Eastern Pickled Turnips Recipe

Dips and Condiments

Quick Pickled Cucumber Recipe

Dips and Condiments

Pickled Red Onions

Italian

Giardiniera (Italian Pickled Vegetables)